The following e-mail excerpts are from club members. As you'll see there are many views and ideas on how to dress for winter riding. For the most part it all comes down to preferences and what works for you.
Thanks to all the riders for taking the time to post their ideas and pass on their knowledge.
Thanks to all the riders for taking the time to post their ideas and pass on their knowledge.
Craig
I have a tendency to dress warmer than others.
I don’t like being cold.
I can always take something off.
I can’t always put something on.
Dress in layers.
That’s my philosophy
I don’t like being cold.
I can always take something off.
I can’t always put something on.
Dress in layers.
That’s my philosophy
Thom
I certainly don’t have answers/recommendations about cold weather riding, but I do have a question—one that I was
thinking about quite a bit during my early morning ride yesterday. Here’s my situation: I much prefer being cold for
the first hour or so of a long ride than wearing/carrying a bunch of extra gear to stay warm (that burdens me for the
rest of the ride). However, I don’t want to get frost bite! Do I need to worry about exposed skin if I’m traveling
17-20 mph and it’s 40 degrees outside for that first hour (and 45 for the second hour, 48 for the third, etc.)? Is
there something akin to a wind chill that would tell me when/whether I could quit worrying about and just ride? I can
deal with “being cold”; but I do worry about hurting myself. So I guess my question is: at what temps may I ride with
confidence that I’m not going to get frost bite?
Gabriel
I'm not exactly a newbie, but I'm and "on and off" rider from five years ago. One reason I'm off is weather - either
too cold or too hot. I realize it's mostly an excuse, but it would be good to learn from others what their strategies
are and that I'm not the only one who's cold. I mean, most of the time I just feel like a pansy.
Larry
Willingness
Waterproof, wind proof outer jacket (does not need to be insulated--you'll generate plenty of warmth)
I WOULD USE THE ABOVE JACKET IF UNDER 40 AND TAKE IT OFF ONCE BODY IS WARMED UP. JACKET SHOULD HAVE SIDE OR ARMPIT VENTS OR BOTH.
I LIKE TO USE A HEAVY FLEECE OUTER TOP…IT BREATHES REAL GOOD BUT STILL KEEPS THE BODY HEAT IN.
Warm, waterproof glove/mitten combos that do not compromise your dexterity
Warm, waterproof shoe/boots with warm socks and room for toe wiggling
Warm, but thin head covering that will fit under your helmet and protect your ears
Wicking base layers, like silk or synthetics
Weekly chain lubing
Worn brake pad replacement
White headlight, red rear light and reflective tape…IF RIDING IN FOG OR DARKNESSS
Waterproof, wind proof outer jacket (does not need to be insulated--you'll generate plenty of warmth)
I WOULD USE THE ABOVE JACKET IF UNDER 40 AND TAKE IT OFF ONCE BODY IS WARMED UP. JACKET SHOULD HAVE SIDE OR ARMPIT VENTS OR BOTH.
I LIKE TO USE A HEAVY FLEECE OUTER TOP…IT BREATHES REAL GOOD BUT STILL KEEPS THE BODY HEAT IN.
Warm, waterproof glove/mitten combos that do not compromise your dexterity
Warm, waterproof shoe/boots with warm socks and room for toe wiggling
Warm, but thin head covering that will fit under your helmet and protect your ears
Wicking base layers, like silk or synthetics
Weekly chain lubing
Worn brake pad replacement
White headlight, red rear light and reflective tape…IF RIDING IN FOG OR DARKNESSS
Jack
I'm a brand new member, so my name will be new to you. Here are some thoughts on riding in the cold, randomly:
1 - Unless you can afford winter riding shoes, booties are essential. I use the toe booties for cool days and the full booties for cold days. These aren't the neoprene ones--I have those too and never need them. Nor are these time trail aero booties (newbies might not know the difference).
2 - I ride in wool socks all winter long. They're warm, they stay warm if they get damp, and they only need to be washed every fifth ride or so. Very thick wool socks can be hard to jam into regular shoes, and if you do you run the risk of cutting off circulation, which defeats the purpose.
3 - I have friends who swear by those chemical packets that produce warmth for 4-6 hours--you put them in your gloves, or I suppose your socks.
4 - Warm gloves are vital. Have at least one pair large enough to get thin glove liners inside. The limiting factor is, how much glove can you wear and still shift, reach into a jacket pocket, etc.? I've got thin gloves I wear inside regular gloves, for cool days, warmer windproof gloves, and big boxing gloves. Remember, no glove is worth anything if it lets water in, so see #5.
5 - Maybe the best thing I ever did for winter riding was to buy and use the waterproofing spray you buy at backpacking stores. I found that every bootie, glove, or jacket I bought was only sort-of waterproof, which didn't cut it. The spray really works. I've now used it on pretty much my entire winter wardrobe.
6 - A rear fender does wonders for preventing spray going up your back--get one of those plastic ones that clamps on and off in a second. Mountain bikers zip-tie a section of plastic water bottle to their down tube to help with front -wheel spray--never tried it, but I bet it works.
7 - I wear glasses, and they're lousy in the rain. Rain-X helps. Pretty much I live with it.
8 - You need a skullcap. I find it hard to find one that isn't too bulky under a helmet, so try before you buy.
9 - The best cold-weather bang for the buck is a balaclava. Looks dumb but will save your face and is surprisingly comfy.
10 - You need a raincoat. "Rain-resistant" windbreakers are very nice for mild days with a chance of sprinkles, but if it's really coming down nothing does it but a raincoat.
11 - I wear wool jerseys a lot in the winter. They're a bit heavy, but they have a wonderful ability to handle temperature ranges, so you stay warm but don't overheat, and again you don't have to wash them often.
12 - I like to have light rain pants--breathable plastic overpants you wear over your tights. I use them once a year, but they're nice if you're going to be out for a while. They're very expensive, but you can catch them on sale for peanuts (like $40).
13 - Speaking of that, never wear anything that doesn't breathe, however cold it is.
14 - You need winter-weight tights, but they don't have to be heavy--just any insulation is enough, since you don't lose much heat through your legs.
15 - Obviously you need to layer. On a typical cold winter ride I will wear five layers on my chest: under-T, light long-sleeve underwear, winter jersey, lightly-insulated windbreaker vest, and raincoat. This makes it very hard to strip off layers, since the first layers you want to take off are at the bottom, but I haven't found a way around that. I am 62, so I need to bundle up.
16 - You need a place to put this stuff when it warms up. I carry a large seat pack (and take much abuse for it, since it isn't cool), because I'm often riding and storing a raincoat, a vest, an undershirt, a pair of gloves, leg warmers, etc. If you can't store it, you have to wear it, which is ugly when you're overheating.
17 - As your email mentioned, don't dress for the moment you head out the door; dress for what you'll feel like after 20 minutes of riding. Better 20 minutes of cold than 2 hours of sweaty heat.
That said, I find that cool cyclists are really into wearing next to nothing. I think that's dumb, not to mention bad for your joints. When in doubt, wear it--you can always take it off.
18 - I've never found a need for a helmet cover in our climate.
19 - You have to ride differently in rain. The 3 main differences: your traction is reduced (so corner slower), your tires are more prone to flats (so clean your tires with your gloves as you ride more often), and road paint gets slick (so be very careful crossing yellow and white lines).
20 - Dry and relube your bike after every wet ride, and wipe the brake pad residue off your tire rims.
21 - I've been told many times you don't need "rain tires" in winter, but you might want to shift to heavier tires just to resist punctures.
That's all that comes to mind--hope some of it helps.
1 - Unless you can afford winter riding shoes, booties are essential. I use the toe booties for cool days and the full booties for cold days. These aren't the neoprene ones--I have those too and never need them. Nor are these time trail aero booties (newbies might not know the difference).
2 - I ride in wool socks all winter long. They're warm, they stay warm if they get damp, and they only need to be washed every fifth ride or so. Very thick wool socks can be hard to jam into regular shoes, and if you do you run the risk of cutting off circulation, which defeats the purpose.
3 - I have friends who swear by those chemical packets that produce warmth for 4-6 hours--you put them in your gloves, or I suppose your socks.
4 - Warm gloves are vital. Have at least one pair large enough to get thin glove liners inside. The limiting factor is, how much glove can you wear and still shift, reach into a jacket pocket, etc.? I've got thin gloves I wear inside regular gloves, for cool days, warmer windproof gloves, and big boxing gloves. Remember, no glove is worth anything if it lets water in, so see #5.
5 - Maybe the best thing I ever did for winter riding was to buy and use the waterproofing spray you buy at backpacking stores. I found that every bootie, glove, or jacket I bought was only sort-of waterproof, which didn't cut it. The spray really works. I've now used it on pretty much my entire winter wardrobe.
6 - A rear fender does wonders for preventing spray going up your back--get one of those plastic ones that clamps on and off in a second. Mountain bikers zip-tie a section of plastic water bottle to their down tube to help with front -wheel spray--never tried it, but I bet it works.
7 - I wear glasses, and they're lousy in the rain. Rain-X helps. Pretty much I live with it.
8 - You need a skullcap. I find it hard to find one that isn't too bulky under a helmet, so try before you buy.
9 - The best cold-weather bang for the buck is a balaclava. Looks dumb but will save your face and is surprisingly comfy.
10 - You need a raincoat. "Rain-resistant" windbreakers are very nice for mild days with a chance of sprinkles, but if it's really coming down nothing does it but a raincoat.
11 - I wear wool jerseys a lot in the winter. They're a bit heavy, but they have a wonderful ability to handle temperature ranges, so you stay warm but don't overheat, and again you don't have to wash them often.
12 - I like to have light rain pants--breathable plastic overpants you wear over your tights. I use them once a year, but they're nice if you're going to be out for a while. They're very expensive, but you can catch them on sale for peanuts (like $40).
13 - Speaking of that, never wear anything that doesn't breathe, however cold it is.
14 - You need winter-weight tights, but they don't have to be heavy--just any insulation is enough, since you don't lose much heat through your legs.
15 - Obviously you need to layer. On a typical cold winter ride I will wear five layers on my chest: under-T, light long-sleeve underwear, winter jersey, lightly-insulated windbreaker vest, and raincoat. This makes it very hard to strip off layers, since the first layers you want to take off are at the bottom, but I haven't found a way around that. I am 62, so I need to bundle up.
16 - You need a place to put this stuff when it warms up. I carry a large seat pack (and take much abuse for it, since it isn't cool), because I'm often riding and storing a raincoat, a vest, an undershirt, a pair of gloves, leg warmers, etc. If you can't store it, you have to wear it, which is ugly when you're overheating.
17 - As your email mentioned, don't dress for the moment you head out the door; dress for what you'll feel like after 20 minutes of riding. Better 20 minutes of cold than 2 hours of sweaty heat.
That said, I find that cool cyclists are really into wearing next to nothing. I think that's dumb, not to mention bad for your joints. When in doubt, wear it--you can always take it off.
18 - I've never found a need for a helmet cover in our climate.
19 - You have to ride differently in rain. The 3 main differences: your traction is reduced (so corner slower), your tires are more prone to flats (so clean your tires with your gloves as you ride more often), and road paint gets slick (so be very careful crossing yellow and white lines).
20 - Dry and relube your bike after every wet ride, and wipe the brake pad residue off your tire rims.
21 - I've been told many times you don't need "rain tires" in winter, but you might want to shift to heavier tires just to resist punctures.
That's all that comes to mind--hope some of it helps.
Jenelle
Layers work best for me in items thin enough to take off and store as needed, such as lightweight but warm jerseys, arm
warmers, leg warmers, and I must have an ear warmer or headband to protect my ears. A face mask is also nice, but the
face can get warm pretty quickly, so the thinner ones work well.
Irene
I agree about newbies overdressing! I sure did in the beginning.
My advice: simply layer, using polypro as the first layer; then one garment over that and then the jacket. Also, a must: ear warmers!!
And gloves with fingers .....there are winter-type biking gloves. I wear liners under mine, sort of like if you were cross-country skiing.
My advice: simply layer, using polypro as the first layer; then one garment over that and then the jacket. Also, a must: ear warmers!!
And gloves with fingers .....there are winter-type biking gloves. I wear liners under mine, sort of like if you were cross-country skiing.
Dave
This is a great idea and I wish I’d had some guidance when I starting “collecting” clothing – some of which doesn’t work very well!
I have just one idea to contribute: When it comes to keeping the torso warm & dry, it’s essential to provide protection from outside moisture as well as from body-generated moisture. It’s pretty easy to find a rain jacket, but I’ve found few that can vent properly to prevent my base layer & jersey from getting soaked. Even those that are advertised as having fabrics that “breathe” (e.g., Gore) don’t seem to do it for me.
So my choice is the REI Novara Stratos. (Web page is http://www.rei.com/product/724360.) Although a little pricey (lists at $149, but is available on sale occasionally), the features make it worthwhile:
For me one of the most notable benefits of this jacket is, of all things, pit zippers! I can adjust air flow from none to a gale depending on the conditions and my exertions. And by loosening the collar and/or cuffs, the air through-flow rate is infinitely variable. Which means I don’t get too hot or too cool.
See the web page & reviews (including reviews from a bunch of really low-temperature places) for a list of other attributes, including the highly visible color, the zipper pocket in the back, the zipper chest pocket (keys, cell phone), soft felt collar lining, adjustable cuffs, snap up “butt cover”, and the apparent very good protection from rain. (I say “apparent” only because I’ve been able to avoid riding in the rain during the year I’ve had the jacket and so haven’t tested rain protection!)
Caveat: I notice the REI website only lists a couple of sizes; not sure if that means only that they’re coming to the end of the season or this model is being discontinued. With the great reviews, I don’t see how REI could discontinue it.
I have just one idea to contribute: When it comes to keeping the torso warm & dry, it’s essential to provide protection from outside moisture as well as from body-generated moisture. It’s pretty easy to find a rain jacket, but I’ve found few that can vent properly to prevent my base layer & jersey from getting soaked. Even those that are advertised as having fabrics that “breathe” (e.g., Gore) don’t seem to do it for me.
So my choice is the REI Novara Stratos. (Web page is http://www.rei.com/product/724360.) Although a little pricey (lists at $149, but is available on sale occasionally), the features make it worthwhile:
For me one of the most notable benefits of this jacket is, of all things, pit zippers! I can adjust air flow from none to a gale depending on the conditions and my exertions. And by loosening the collar and/or cuffs, the air through-flow rate is infinitely variable. Which means I don’t get too hot or too cool.
See the web page & reviews (including reviews from a bunch of really low-temperature places) for a list of other attributes, including the highly visible color, the zipper pocket in the back, the zipper chest pocket (keys, cell phone), soft felt collar lining, adjustable cuffs, snap up “butt cover”, and the apparent very good protection from rain. (I say “apparent” only because I’ve been able to avoid riding in the rain during the year I’ve had the jacket and so haven’t tested rain protection!)
Caveat: I notice the REI website only lists a couple of sizes; not sure if that means only that they’re coming to the end of the season or this model is being discontinued. With the great reviews, I don’t see how REI could discontinue it.
Kathy
In addition to what Larry posted a little bit ago, I've a couple of things that I thank goodness I have every time I use them and then something that I should have look around for more.
Good things /musts for me:
Arm warmers. I still remember what an awesome thing I thought they were - keep you warm, easy to just pull up and down as the weather changes, and don't take up too much room when you take them off.
A headband. It keeps ears warm and takes minimal space when you take it off.
My Thermal silk Balaclava - Although I seldom wear it over my head, I can pull it up just in the back to keep the cold off my neck, just let in lay around my neck to keep air from coming in, use it as just a headband, AND it folds to the size of a handkerchief. This one was thanks to a tip from Pat Larson. $10.99 at Campmor. Here's a link. http://www.campmor.com/outdoor/gear/Product___68166
Uh-uh's:
My rain jacket. It keeps out the rain wonderfully ~ and it can be a great sauna even though it has zippers under the arms. Don't have a recommendation here other than look for something breathable. And reflective material would be a bonus.
Good things /musts for me:
Arm warmers. I still remember what an awesome thing I thought they were - keep you warm, easy to just pull up and down as the weather changes, and don't take up too much room when you take them off.
A headband. It keeps ears warm and takes minimal space when you take it off.
My Thermal silk Balaclava - Although I seldom wear it over my head, I can pull it up just in the back to keep the cold off my neck, just let in lay around my neck to keep air from coming in, use it as just a headband, AND it folds to the size of a handkerchief. This one was thanks to a tip from Pat Larson. $10.99 at Campmor. Here's a link. http://www.campmor.com/outdoor/gear/Product___68166
Uh-uh's:
My rain jacket. It keeps out the rain wonderfully ~ and it can be a great sauna even though it has zippers under the arms. Don't have a recommendation here other than look for something breathable. And reflective material would be a bonus.
Peggy
Good ideas, Kathy. I'm going to try the balaclava idea, although so far I do fine with my headband and, if really cold, skull cap. I'll wear a wicking turtleneck under my jersey to keep my neck warm.
For outerwear, I wear a very lightweight breathable jacket that zips down from the top and up from the bottom. I don't get pearl izumi because theirs only zips from the bottom up. I may have bought it at REI. When I start out riding, I have it zipped up fully, then as I warm up I unzip from the bottom up to the chest (to let out accumulated warm air and moisture). Then I'll unzip from the top to mid-chest. (For those whose chest protrudes more than others - this applies to more X's than O's -and tends to catch most of the wind, this approach keeps the chest warm while allowing air flow all around. Plus, you don't have the same wind drag as when you just zip down from the top and try to leave the bottom zipped.
My toes and fingers tend to get the coldest first. I wear wool socks and toe covers but haven't found a great solution for the fingers, but haven't wanted to spend big bucks for the lobster type gloves, which I understand do work well.
Some tips I was given by some 10,000+ mile/annum riders: If you stop during a cold ride, take your gloves and headband - maybe even helmet - inside with you so they stay warm. Or tuck them under your shirt. There's nothing worse than riding with cold, wet gloves. Yuck!
I appreciate all the tips!
For outerwear, I wear a very lightweight breathable jacket that zips down from the top and up from the bottom. I don't get pearl izumi because theirs only zips from the bottom up. I may have bought it at REI. When I start out riding, I have it zipped up fully, then as I warm up I unzip from the bottom up to the chest (to let out accumulated warm air and moisture). Then I'll unzip from the top to mid-chest. (For those whose chest protrudes more than others - this applies to more X's than O's -and tends to catch most of the wind, this approach keeps the chest warm while allowing air flow all around. Plus, you don't have the same wind drag as when you just zip down from the top and try to leave the bottom zipped.
My toes and fingers tend to get the coldest first. I wear wool socks and toe covers but haven't found a great solution for the fingers, but haven't wanted to spend big bucks for the lobster type gloves, which I understand do work well.
Some tips I was given by some 10,000+ mile/annum riders: If you stop during a cold ride, take your gloves and headband - maybe even helmet - inside with you so they stay warm. Or tuck them under your shirt. There's nothing worse than riding with cold, wet gloves. Yuck!
I appreciate all the tips!
Tawny
Instead of the expensive "lobster" style gloves, I bought a pair of rag wool mittens: half-cut fingers for when you need some dexterity, and with a flip-over mitten to keep your fingers warm when you need it; velcro's back when you don't. Both of my sets of long-fingered bike gloves tended not to keep my fingers warm, and my ski gloves were too bulky. The rag wool mitts have been the perfect accessory: breathable AND warm. About $10 at Campmor or Target; similar gloves are also made out of fleece.
Walt
Silk or polypro glove liners work well to make fingered gloves warmer.
Jim
I'm using the liners from my "lobster" gloves over my regular bike gloves for dry cold days and take off the liners when it warms up and that is keeping my fingers warm this winter.